By Derik Strelsky
Texas Barbecue Online Magazine
April 13, 2025
Central Texas barbecue, with its smokey brisket, peppery rubs, and minimalist approach to sauce, has transcended its regional roots to become a global culinary phenomenon. What began as a tradition forged by German and Czech immigrants in the meat markets of 19th-century Texas has evolved into a worldwide obsession, captivating food lovers from small-town America to bustling international cities. This slow-cooked, post oak-smoked art form is no longer just a Lone Star State staple, it’s a cultural export that’s reshaping barbecue traditions across the planet.
Sweeping the Southern States
Blake’s At Southern Milling Photo Courtesy of Blake Stroker
In the United States, Central Texas barbecue has made a particularly strong impression across the South. Southern Living Magazine recently noted, “Texas-style brisket continues to spread across the South, winning over fans from Charleston to Little Rock.” This observation highlights the growing influence of Central Texas’s signature style, characterized by its focus on high-quality beef, simple salt-and-pepper seasoning, and hours of smoking over post oak, in a region historically dominated by pork and vinegar or mustard-based sauces. In Arkansas, Wright’s Barbecue has embraced the “Texas Trinity” of brisket, ribs, and sausage, earning accolades as a standout practitioner of this craft. In South Carolina, pitmaster John Lewis, originally from Austin, has brought Central Texas brisket to Charleston, where it’s hailed as some of the best in the South. Meanwhile, in Tennessee, Black Stoker of Blake’s at Southern Milling has introduced Texas-style barbecue to the Volunteer State, blending Central Texas techniques with local flair and drawing crowds eager for its smoked brisket and ribs. The trend is clear: Central Texas barbecue is not just infiltrating the Southern palate, it’s redefining it.
Beyond the South: A National Embrace
In the U.S., beyond the Southern states, cities like Denver, Seattle, and Phoenix have embraced Central Texas barbecue, with joints like Waylon’s Smoke Shack and Little Miss BBQ earning cult followings. This expansion showcases the style’s ability to captivate diverse American audiences, proving its appeal stretches far beyond its Texas origins.
The First Family of BBQ, (L-R) Jerry Mikeska – Columbus, Rudy Mikeska – Taylor, Mike Mikeska – Smithville, Louis Mikeska – Temple, Maurcie Mikeska – El Campo, Clem Mikeska – Temple Photo Coutesy of Tim Mikesk
A Legacy of Legendary Pitmasters
The global rise of Central Texas barbecue owes much to its pioneering pitmasters, whose techniques and philosophies laid the foundation for its worldwide appeal. At Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, Texas, founder Louie Mueller and Fred Fountaine perfected the art of smoking brisket with a focus on simplicity and quality, creating a legacy that resonates globally. Southside Market in Elgin saw Bud Frazier elevate sausage-making to an art form, blending German influences with Texas flair. Walter Jetton, famously known as Lyndon B. Johnson’s barbecue chef, brought Central Texas flavors to the national stage, catering events that showcased the region’s prowess. The Mikeska Brothers, dubbed the “first family” of Texas barbecue with their Czech heritage, introduced a meticulous approach to smoked meats in small-town Texas, while Edgar Black Sr. and son Edgar Black Jr. of Black’s BBQ in Lockhart built a dynasty on tender brisket and family tradition. Charles Kreuz Sr. of Kreuz Market in Lockhart cemented the no-sauce, meat-first ethos that defines Central Texas barbecue, a legacy influencing generations of pitmasters.
Today, that legacy lives on through modern icons. At Louie Mueller Barbecue, the late great Bobby Mueller paved the way, and today, Wayne Mueller carries the torch, maintaining the smoky perfection that draws visitors from around the world. Snow’s BBQ in Lexington boasts Tootsie Tomanetz, a living legend whose early-morning pit-tending has made her a global symbol of dedication to the craft. Lance Kirkpatrick, who began his journey at Louie Mueller Barbecue and now helms Stiles Switch BBQ, brings an innovative yet traditional approach to the craft. Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, whose meticulous brisket has earned international acclaim, has elevated Central Texas barbecue to new heights. Roy Perez of Kreuz Market continues to honor the Kreuz family tradition, while Bill Dumas, the Sausage Sensei and Central Texas ambassador, travels the globe teaching at international barbecue shows, spreading the gospel of this smokey art form.
Edgar Black Jr. and Wife Norma Jean Black Photo Courtesy of Barrett Black
Wayne Mueller, Photo Courtesy of Derik Strelsky
A Worldwide Sensation
Beyond the United States, Central Texas barbecue has ignited a global movement, with pitmasters and restaurateurs adapting its techniques to local tastes while preserving its core identity. In Australia, Melbourne and Perth have emerged as hubs for Texas-style barbecue, with joints like Bluebonnet BBQ in Melbourne serving up brisket that rivals anything found in Austin or Lockhart. The Age, a prominent Melbourne newspaper, raved, “The smoky, tender brisket at Bluebonnet could make a Texan homesick, it’s that authentic.”
Lance Kirkpatrick, Stiles Switch, Photo Courtesy of Derik Strelsky
In the United Kingdom, London’s Texas Joe’s, led by Joe Walters, a self-proclaimed “Tex-pat,” smokes brisket low and slow in the Central Texas tradition. The Guardian praised the effort, noting, “Texas Joe’s brings a slice of Central Texas to London, with brisket that’s a revelation in a city once skeptical of American barbecue.” In South Africa, The Salt Slab in Cape Town has embraced the Central Texas style, with its oak-smoked brisket earning a devoted following. The Cape Times declared, “The Salt Slab’s Texas-inspired barbecue is a game-changer in a land known for braai.”
Mike Ross, Owner and Pitmaster The Salt Slap BBQ South Africa, Photo Courtesy of Salt Slab BBQ
In Sweden, Holy Smoke BBQ in Nyhamnsläge has drawn international attention for its Texas-inspired offerings, hosting workshops to teach locals the art of smoking brisket, a far cry from Scandinavia’s traditional fare. In Peru, Lima’s El Jefe Smoked BBQ has introduced Central Texas-style barbecue to a cuisine rich with its own grilling traditions, blending smoky beef with local flair. In Mexico City, Pinche Gringo BBQ fuses Central Texas brisket with Mexican spices and tortillas, creating a cross-border sensation.
William Tischina Hong Kong, The Great American Texas BBQ Festival, Photo Courtesy of Smokin Willy T
Asia has joined the craze as well. In Shanghai, China, Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q has earned praise for its authentic brisket, with the South China Morning Post describing it as “a taste of Texas in the heart of Shanghai, where the smoky crust is a marvel.” In Japan, Tokyo’s barbecue joints, inspired by Austin’s Kemuri Tatsu-Ya, pair Central Texas techniques with local whiskeys, delighting adventurous eaters. Certain cities and nations have become epicenters of this global takeover. Internationally, Oslo, Norway, and Cairo, Egypt, are experimenting with Central Texas methods, while São Paulo, Brazil, has welcomed the style with open arms. Folha de S.Paulo declared, “The Central Texas brisket has landed, and it’s here to stay.” Even in Brussels, Belgium, a pop-up serving Central Texas-style brisket prompted Le Soir to report, “Brussels may be known for waffles, but it’s the smokey beef from Texas that’s turning heads.”
Photo Courtesy of Pitmast Uni Pitmaster University Collab
The Cultural Catalyst
What explains this global domination? At its heart, Central Texas barbecue offers a purity of craft, meat, smoke, and time, that resonates across cultures. Its adaptability allows it to merge with local traditions, as seen in Houston’s Blood Bros. BBQ, where Asian-inspired flavors meet Texas brisket, or in Arlington’s Smoke’N Ash, where Ethiopian spices elevate the smoked meat experience. Bill Dumas, the Sausage Sensei, exemplifies this through his international workshops, teaching pitmasters from Europe to Asia the secrets of Central Texas sausage and brisket, cementing its status as a global language of barbecue.
Newspapers worldwide echo this sentiment. The Sydney Morning Herald mused, “Central Texas barbecue has turned smoked brisket into a global language,” while Canada’s Globe and Mail noted, “From Austin to Toronto, the Texas pitmaster’s art is rewriting barbecue rules.” This isn’t just a trend, it’s a movement, fueled by a lineage of legendary pitmasters, from Louie Mueller to Aaron Franklin, and a global audience hungry for its smokey perfection.
Bill Dumas giving a class at the USA Barbecue Guru Series, Perth, Western AustraliaPhoto Courtesy of Pitmaster Uni
The Future of Central Texas BBQ
Southern Living’s spotlight on its Southern sweep, from Charleston to Tennessee’s Black Stoker BBQ, is just the beginning. Cities like Cape Town and Melbourne are waypoints on a journey that spans London, Shanghai, and beyond. With each new outpost, from Oslo to São Paulo, the legacy of Central Texas barbecue grows, proving that a simple cut of brisket, kissed by smoke and seasoned with restraint, can conquer the world, one plate at a time.